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I have a chance to buy a Tierra II but
it needs to be completely recovered and
some other minor work. What I need to know
is a "ball park" figure as to what it
would cost to recover it. Any help would
be appreciated. Vic
Victor Mahagan
<mahagan@texas.net>
- Thursday, June 29, 2000 at 09:16:57
(PDT)
- Hello
Victor,
- Of course
you'll want to call GCA and
get some costs from them. If
you choose to go another
route, recent reports are that
a set of sails (NOT including
the nose piece) from
Ron
Gonci (also Spruce and
Specialty) is going to set you
back about $1300.00. You'll
probably want to replace some
rivets in the wings, and it's
a good time to replace aileron
hardware (maybe $30-$40 max).
If it's an old bird, you might
consider getting wing sails
that hold the additional ribs
that newer T's have, and maybe
even getting a new set of ribs
from GCA, only because they
have a different curve to
them, and Dan
Johnson thinks they make an
improvement in flight
characteristics.
- Mike
=]
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Does anyone have information re. the
specs on a T-bird trigear with 503 rotax
such as vne speed, center of gravity, etc.
golden circle hasn't been much help to
date on that topic.
john streitberger
<streitberger@yahoo.com>
- Tuesday, June 27, 2000 at 20:34:24
(PDT)
- Hello
John,
- There's a
lot of information
about Center of Gravity on
this web site. Start
here and follow the
links. Try a web site search
for Vne. This site is over 175
megs now, so I'm not sure any
more what's here.
- Mike
=]
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Looking for anyone that has a FP101 or
FP202. I'm restoring a FP101 and can use
some help in answering questions when they
come up... thanks
Eugene
Naves
<getalife27@hotmail.com>
- Wednesday, June 21, 2000 at 15:09:38
(PDT)
- Hello
Eugene,
- I can't
help. Trying to keep this web
site specific to Tierras and
T-Birds. Sorry.
- Mike
=]
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G'day, I don't know anything about T
Birds (construction, specs. or how sold)
or what models are available, could you
give me some information of these things.
I have actually been searching for
ultralight plans for home building (not
kit). Would you know of any producers of
plans for dacron/aluminium tube types.
Would you happen to know of a good book on
construction of these types of aircraft.
Thank You and Good Flying.
Alan Parrish
<s347473@student.uq.edu.au>
- Wednesday, June 21, 2000 at 06:37:24
(PDT)
Ladies and Guys, Just an update on the
Wankel Rotary from Golden Circle Air, inc.
I've been using it on one of the Factory
trainers now for a year. It has over 350
hours without a hic-cup. It burns 3.4
G/P/H; Has more power than he 618 Rotax,
maybe a little less than the 912. It
weighs 114 pounds complete. I've flown at
Oshkosh and lakeland Florida. The power
comes in smooth and immediate. there is no
oil can so you don't have oil temp, oil
pressure, oil cooler, oil lines that leak.
You only have to watch two engine
instruments. the Tach. and the Water temp.
Might be a good idea to install a volt
meter too. It's simple to install and hook
up. If your looking for 4 cycle
dependability... here ya go.
Bob Ellefson
<bobdorly@netins.net>
- Wednesday, June 21, 2000 at 04:34:12
(PDT)
That
(crashed plane)
happened about 50 miles from my home just
outside of West Memphis. They said the
wings collapsed and the pilot was 71 years
old. His survivors on TV said that he was
doing what he loved and... he was going to
kill himself in that plane. That is the
usual response from non-ultralight people
and fear of flying people. ... there was
an Ag. plane went down about 100 miles to
the south of me the same day and killed
the pilot. ... same respones about flying
went out.... However ,on the same day
about 15 miles to the north... 2 people
killed in a head-on collision with a Pepsi
truck. Being safe in whatever you do and
good common sense will go a long way ,
but, when it is time to go, it is time to
go.
Joe Wooten
<wooten@nelsondesigngroup.com>
- Saturday, June 17, 2000 at 06:23:15
(PDT)
I am also using an IVO prop on my '83
Tierra 1. I have a 503 single carb, and
the prop is a 62" three blade Quick Adj.
IVO. I turn it 6000 rpm static, and 5200
at cruise. I show approx. 55 mph in that
configuration. It takes off in about 150
ft and climbs about 700 fpm. To say that I
am pleased with the performance is an
understatement. to install this prop on my
airplane, I had to make a longer shaft for
my belt drive reduction unit to get the
proper clearence that IVO recomended. I
may have to change the pitch when I get my
floats installed, but that remains to be
seen.
Jeff Campbell
<jeffnancyc@ime.net>
- Saturday, June 17, 2000 at 05:37:38
(PDT)
Yes, I am currently using a IVO prop on
my 1983 Tierra II. However, I am not
satisfied with the current performance I
am receiving with my configuration. I want
to improve my climb out and don't want
necessarily want to buy a larger engine to
do so. I talked to Stuart at Powerfin and
have decided to change to a C gear box and
a new Powerfin F prop. If this doesn't
change the performance enough I may decide
to sell the Tierra and get a different
bird. I'll keep you posted.
Mark A.
Carter
<mark@ultrapilot.com>
- Friday, June 16, 2000 at 12:42:31 (PDT)
Hi fellow and fellowette T-Birders.
Would like to hear suggestions for
mounting locations and procedures for a
VHF antenna. Just seems like a can't find
a location that is away from the engine
and also has a large enough ground
plane.
Jerry Hodson
<jjhodson@netusa1.net>
- Friday, June 09, 2000 at 22:18:47 (PDT)
I have a 1983 Tierra II, with a 532DC
engine. I need to know which props I can
use. I have an Ivoprop (3 blade), but I
cannot get the 5" clearance that is
required. Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated! Also, I don't have any idea
what pitch I need to get the correct
static RPM. Thanks in advance,
Marvin
Marvin Shackelford
<Marvin.Shackelford@tnmemp.ang.af.mil>
- Friday, June 09, 2000 at 11:21:14
(PDT)
I would very much appreciate that. Is
this a factory item on early Tierras or a
creation of your own? Would it be suitable
for my tri-gear if I can find a way to
adapt it to the round tube? Thanks
much
L Kilburg
<lnk@cis.net>
- Friday, June 09, 2000 at 09:33:29
(PDT)
- Woops.
Hold everything. I didn't
understand that you are on
trigear. I do NOT think it
would be a good idea to put
leaf springs on a round tube.
2" square only.
- Your
questions: Yes, this was
factory standard on, at least,
the 1983 and 1984 T's.
- You should
also check with Mark (above) because he
has an interesting
gear
adaptation you might
like.
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I have heard of replacing the mains on
a Tierra/T-Bird with leaf springs. Anyone
have any info on what it takes? I fly from
a very rough field and could sure use
something that doesn't get damaged so
easily. Any info on strengthening the nose
wheel on tri gear (more precisely the tube
above the nose wheel) would also be
helpful.
L. Kilburg
<LNK@CIS.Net>
- Thursday, June 08, 2000 at 12:32:41
(PDT)
- Here's a
picture of the original leaf
spring gear. They've been
pounded over and over with
rough field landings for
almost 150 hours now. No
problems or maintenance. Also
able to "tweak" them for
camber and toe-in to suit. Let
me know if you want a picture
of the wheel end, or
measurements, etc.
- Mike
=]
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I recently returned from southern
California with my T-1 on a flat bed car
trailer . If you plan on hauling your
T-Bird around like this I'll give you a
few tips . Mine is the outside frame rail
type which worked well . The deck length
is 20 feet so I was able to leave the
landing gear on . I pushed the plane all
the way to the front of the trailer after
laying some old carpet on the floor . I
then slid in a wing and covered it with
more carpet ( usually free at a carpet
shop -- often in their dumpster .) I
placed extra carpet pieces on protruding
metal parts like the aileron horns and
duct taped them in place .Slide the second
wing in on top of the first. You will need
a 4X4 post or something similar to suspend
the rear of the plane with . Just lay it
across the frame rails near the tail wheel
& duct tape it to the rails . Do this
before puting the wings in of course . Lay
more carpet pieces over the second wing so
you won't chafe them when tying them down
. Be gentle with your tie-downs & use
plenty of them . Lash the front of the
cabin securely to the front rails . Lash
the end of the elevator / stabilizers to
the rails to prevent movement . If in
doubt , use more rope . I would recommend
removing the engine also ( 4 bolts ) . I
hauled mine about 600 miles in strong
winds & it made it just fine . John
John Silver
<hazencajun@webtv.net>
- Wednesday, June 07, 2000 at 20:18:46
(PDT)
Hi Folks!!!! I would like to replace
the rubber tubing that secures the
instrument panel to the airframe. Does
anyone know the specs on that tubing so I
can look for it locally??? Also, what are
the specs on the trigear T1 main gear legs
and the teleflex cables? I figure I may as
well change them... not that it has broken
or anything.... just preventative
maintenance, dontchaknow.... Thanks in
advance, Bill
Bill Werner
<bjw6632@aol.com>
- Tuesday, June 06, 2000 at 04:58:58
(PDT)
- Hi Bill,
This picture of your panel looks
like the tubing is 1/4 or 3/8
inch surgical tubing? This
picture of a new T-Bird
panel looks like something
else. A call to Kenny at GCA
(515) 834-2225 would probably
clear that up. About the
tri-gear conversion, you might
contact Mark
Carter or Gerald
Jones who have converted
their ships this year. For
Teleflex
cables, your local marine
supplier, West
Marine, or GCA. Two 14
foot long cables (elevator)
and one 8 foot cable
(ailerons) should install
without any trouble. This is a
good time to replace hardware
at each end also. Remember,
your life may depend on the
airworthiness of any change
you make to your ship. Check
with the manufacturer , an FAA
A&P or EAA technical
advisor before putting your
ship back in service. Mike
=]
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